On my first visit to Nakhon Ratchasima (or Khorat for short) I was introduced to a fascinating historically accurate and moving account of a Thai national heroine.

Khorat is a major provincial city north east of Bangkok, and after a dramatic drive through the coastal plains and up a steep escarpment, Khorat presents itself as the gateway to the northern plateau of Thailand.  (See map below).

The whole of the Khorat Plateau is steeped in history – prehistoric, ancient, medieval, and modern. Over the centuries it has variously been invaded and annexed by Laos, and Cambodia, and re-possessed by Thailand.

Khorat city has clear vestiges of medieval influence – including preservation of the five gates of the ancient city, portion of the heavily fortified walls, and preservation of the moat that once surrounded the city.

TDHS Web Master, Wally Pickering, at one of the five gates of the ancient city of Khorat

I walked to the gate nearest my hotel – and observed a large number of people worshipping and laying flowers and bouquets at the foot of a large statue on a pedestal. I asked an English speaking policeman "Who is the person in the statue". He replied to me, using deliberately the present tense in English, saying "She is Suranaree, Ya Mo, The Brave Lady of Khorat – she is the wife of the governor of Khorat.   Clearly the statue had been there for many years, so I asked the policeman for more information. He related that in 1826 the governor was summoned by the King to attend at court. The governor took half the garrison defending the city of Khorat for his own protection, and left the remainder under the command of his wife, Ya Mo, who also then was left in control of the city. Then, Prince Anuwongse of Laos led an army to seize Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat). They succeeded in breaching the city’s walled defences, and overrunning the small number of defenders, including Khun Ying Mo, and the women of the city, herding them together to march back to Laos. Khun Ying Mo sagaciously instilled morale and heart in the captive people of Khorat . She did everything to make the Lao soldiers sympathetic to their Thai captives. She also found ways to delay the journey. She was also holding secret talks. She asked [her captors] for axes to repair ‘broken’ carts, or to cut brush for firewood, etc., in order that the captives would have these tools when needed.   Khun Ying Mo ordered that wood sticks be gathered and sharpened with axes, and that hoes be used as well in place of weapons (when the time arrived).

Ya Mo also held the keys to the cellars of the city, which held large quantities of potent Thai liquor. At a propitious time, Ya Mo Mo commanded that a group of young women lure the Lao soldiers, plying them with the potent drink. Able bodied males such as cooks remained in camp. At this time, male cooks separated into groups with a number of weapons. Junior political affairs department staff took the left and right flanks.

Ya Mo acted as the leader of a group of skilled women in a reserve force. After some time passed, all those who had prepared rushed together at the same time, shouting and cheering, chopping at the Lao soldiers and scattering them in confusion. The Lao soldiers had no idea of the impending attack, and fell and died or scattered away. They fled back to Laos with the remaining Thai garrison in hot pursuit.

After the battle was over, His Majesty the King conferred the title of Thao Suranaree (The Brave Lady of Khorat) on Khun Ying Mo, as well as conferring additional titles honouring her bravery.

That is an encapsulation of the policeman’s account – verified by reference to historical accounts. The statue was erected in 1935.

My friends who live in Khorat further commented.

"Thao Suranaree is a great heroine. Her bravery and ability, restraint, sacrifice for her nation was an inspiration. Her bravery is the pride of the people of Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat). This pride and impression makes her almost a family heroine. Thus the people of Korat are partly her children, partly her grandchildren, and have a connection with Thao Suranaree that is one of trust and fond memory. Therefore, when passing Thao Suranaree’s monument, everyone will wai (bow and pay respects) in request for a blessing from her automatically. She is thus truly an important person belonging to all of the people."

"Thao Suranaree is a sacred and precious spirit of Nakhon Ratchasima, caring for, shielding, protecting, monitoring so that her children and grandchildren will have happiness, progress, enjoy success, even if they are not native Koratians, she will give good luck to them as well."

I was so moved by the story, and seeking the protection of the spirit of Suranaree, I bought a floral tribute, and knelt and said a prayer for her and her people.